This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s Guide to Lagos
Don’t tell strangers the truth here, as attention is currency. This is the first lesson Lagos is teaching you. If a random stranger asks who you are and where you came from, it’s best to create the details if you have to respond at all.
However, Lagos teaches you counter lessons. Don’t take that prescription too seriously. Unlike most major cities, which are similarly the first instructions, Lagos encourages you to try something you think you know. The truth is that there is no peculiar truth. Its nature is a kaleidoscope, and it always changes from any angle, who is looking.
So despite this initial warning, I will share who I am and where I am. I’m not originally from Recchi. The Lagos district now encourages visitors. But it is this very external perspective that allows me to thank Lekki, as I hope to make my proposal appealing.
Let’s give some context first. Lagos is a city divided into two parts: the mainland and the island. They are often treated as completely different worlds (sometimes different planets), and the differences between them are real. Geographically, the two are divided into the Lagos Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. The island is coastal, flat and tall and urbanized, but the mainland is more diverse, with less green space and less development. The mainland is almost 20 times more economically than the island, but the latter retains economic strength. It is the city’s wealthy and commercially vibrant heart, and the mainland is more modest and less wealthy. But what truly separates itself from the mainland is that it is not geography or size, but it is intangible. It’s authenticity.
Authenticity in urban contexts is a slippery concept. What one person considers authentic may look unnatural to another. But at its heart, authenticity means connection to the original essence. In this sense, the mainland is very authentic. It’s a place where you can always get a glimpse into the West African region – it’s always – organic, rustic, deeply cultural. The mainland lives in generations of small businesses operating in co-existing with factories, superstores and military bases. It’s a place of contrast and somehow it makes sense to be a surreal painting. I’m from the mainland, so I know it well. It shaped me into who I am today.
In contrast, the island has a more gorgeous and flashy atmosphere. Although this relic of the past, developed by Nigerian colonial masters to suit their lifestyles, is largely declining, it still enjoys a certain privilege and the tasteful feeling that comes with it. This voguish vibe is so ingrained in the island’s sense of self that it is authentic in itself. But it would be stretch to say that the island is authentic in terms of its historic African lifestyle. To Lekki.
Lekki is part of the island, but it has the credibility of the mainland. Lending kilometres along the Lagos coastline, the Lecchi constitutes a significant portion of the urban land area, combining the shiny life of the island with the free everyday atmosphere of the mainland. This is the appeal of Reki and why should you visit? It can be as luxurious as its neighboring districts (Ikoi and Victoria Island), but it also maintains the unpretentious nature of the mainland.
When I say “to Lekki,” it’s not an exaggeration, as if Lekki happened by chance. Major development in the region began only in the 1980s, with the construction of the Lekki-Epe Expressway. Before that, the Lecchi Peninsula was home to indigenous Awori people. They are traders who lived in harmony with the farmers, fishermen and land. I first visited Rekki as a teenager in the mid-1990s. My dad took me to see where we would build our family home. I remember standing on the grounds of the house I was staying at when I visited, looking at the horizon in the sky. If I didn’t see it myself, I would find it difficult to believe that this echoing, vibrant area was a range of large, undeveloped lands of quite recent times.
A great place to experience Lekki’s unique atmosphere is Fola Osibo Road, located in the heart of the area. Be prepared for Lagos style shopping. This requires patience (sleeping soundly before tackling traffic). But the effort is worth it. Fola Osibo can be everything from affordable Nigerian fashion brands like Iconola to lifestyle stores like Ariába. Many shops along this strip are found in what once was in residential buildings, adding an intimate, sometimes almost personal touch to the shopping experience.
For information on Zen escape after shopping, check out the Dew Center at Adebayo Doherty Road. This wellness sanctuary offers a peaceful environment for blissful massages, yoga classes and relaxing. The centre has nice cafes, charming shops and thriving gardens, making it a great place to recharge.
Lekki has been expanding so much since the 1980s that it is now divided into phases – Lekki 1, Lekki 2, Lekki 3. Lekki 2 is especially well worth a visit for the calm Lekki Conservation Center. If you’re immersed in the area’s diverse wildlife and feel an adventurous spirit, you’ll get stunning views of the wetlands and mangroves. Don’t forget to say hello to the resident turtle!
Also nearby is the Nike Art Gallery, West Africa’s largest art gallery run by feminist icon Nike Davis Oakn Day. Known as “Mama Nike,” she is a seductive conversationalist and, if you’re lucky, she might be there to share her insights. Lekki Arts and Crafts Market is another must-see to find everything from jewelry to painting, painting, and furniture.
If you’re willing to challenge the outer edge of Lekki, stay at La Campagne Tropicana Beach Resort and see the pristine beauty of Eleko Beach. Or, go back to Lekki 1 and take a look at 22b Lagos at Olawale Cole Onitiri Avenue. This is an eclectic space that hosts both private and public events and is not regularly advertised, but the exhibits there are certainly worth your time.
In his satirical work, “Writing About Africa,” Kenyan author Vinavanga Weinaina laughed at the cliches that Western writers often use about the continent, including the ubiquitous image of “African sunsets.” But I want to get that sunset back – no cliches. It’s truly spectacular, especially when experienced from one of the many waterfront bars in Lekki, including the famous sailor’s lounge on Admiralty Road. Enjoy live music along with meals (try the barbecue fish). Drink Origin (a bittersweet alcoholic drink that checks out all the “real” boxes) and watch the sunset unfold in all its spectacular shades.
Or stop by Terraform Restaurant at Wole Aleasterju Crescent, my favourite spot in Lekki. The crowd here is made up of confident, yet laid back locals – contemporary, hardworking, hardworking, hardworking, effortlessly cool. The atmosphere is simultaneously hip and welcoming, perfectly reflecting Lekki.
Minna Salami is a Senior Fellow and Research Chair at the New Institute. She is the author of “Can feminism become African?” (HarperCollins) and blog msafropolitan.com
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