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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Venice.
Trefazione Cannaregio
Torrefazione Cannaregio is a roastery that has been in business for over 90 years, located in Sestiere, Cannaregio. Located next to the railway bridge that leads into the ghetto, it is the perfect place for a morning break. They sell their own blend of coffee and will grind your coffee for you. Pastries and cakes are also available. There are tables and chairs indoors and outdoors. Order a macchiatone (Venetian cappuccino – more coffee, less foam) at the bar, then head outside and sit at one of the tables along the canal. Watch the world go by as you watch the boats passing by (watch out for your faithful pilot dog and Sandro Boat) and the laundry fluttering over the canal.
— Thomas Coward, scholar, Rome
Cantine del Vino Gia Schiavi

If you want to sip wine quietly by the canal, overlooking the old gondola shipyard Squero di San Trovaso, try the small Cantine del Vino già Schiavi.
— Vincent Malige, Group Chief Compliance Officer, Paris
Trattoria alla Madonna
A small oasis of authentic Venice, Trattoria alla Madonna is tucked away in a side street away from the Grand Canal. When you walk past it in the morning, you can see the kitchen door fully open and the staff working. The inside of this seafood trattoria is buzzing with pressed linen life. It’s exactly Venice. Memorable. delicious.
— Laurence Croneen, MD Communications Consultant, London
Pasticceria Rosa Salva

See what life in Venice is really like in one of the few campis left completely unraveled by tourism. For generations (my grandparents valued this place), Pasticceria Rosa Salva has been a place where children coming out of school to play soccer, elderly people shopping, parents running to the office, and hospitals. (beautiful Renaissance façade), that is, all the cycles of life. The way I recommend everyone is to sit at an outdoor table and enjoy a good cup of coffee, followed by a spritz or tramezzini (triangle sandwich).
— Marco Boldini, Wealth Management, London (born and raised in Venice)
Antica Locanda Montin

The courtyard of Antica Locanda Montín is a quiet and green place, perfect for enjoying a wonderful lunch away from the hustle and bustle of the city. On sunny afternoons, it’s fun to grab a cicchetti and spritz to-go from Rio de San Trovaso’s bar (opposite the gondola shipyard).
– Anonymous
Bakan

Near the Rialto River, there is a small restaurant called Bacan that serves Latin American cuisine. Their tasting menu is truly amazing. No doubt the menu changes with the seasons, but in April they served the most delicate ceviche in a grapefruit-infused brine. A very bright lemon colored fish (I’m not sure which one) was steamed and wrapped in collard leaves, giving it a taste of the sea. Oyster tacos. And my favorite is the plantain puffs. The atmosphere and service were impeccable. I had just arrived and had not made a reservation. I went inside, waited a few minutes, and sat at a communal table. It was warm and the decor was all South American, with ocher colors and shady lighting. We went twice that week and look forward to going again when we return to Venice.
— Renuka, gallerist, New York
chet bar
Chet Bar, located by the bridge leading north from Campo Santa Margherita (a square with more local university students than visitors to Dorsodouro), is a gem. In the early evening, the bar provides a quiet and quiet atmosphere for people watching. In the evening, it becomes a hub for people to retreat from the closed square and sit on the sidewalk, drinking and having fun. Chet Bar is your best chance to become a Venice local.
— Jack Winfield, lawyer, London
Gelateria Nico

Nico on Zattere is the best gelateria you’ll find on the island. It has always been my favorite place ever since it was recommended to me by a local in 2017. It’s located in a secluded part of the island, away from the most tourist attractions, so it’s usually full of locals. Serve the Gianduiotto with whipped cream. A nice hidden (for now) gem, perfect for cooling down in the heat and practicing your Italian skills.
— Siena Nordquist, PhD student, Milan
pane focaccie morin
For life-changing biscuits, head to Pane Focaccie Morin at Salizada San Francesco. There are no signs, only a strange rat-tail-like cable hanging above the door to identify it. This secret bakery has the most “oh baby” almond ricciarelli biscuits in all of Italy. But it’s difficult. You must arrive by 12:45pm and order Biscotti alle Mandorle. The nice lady at the counter will tell you exactly when to return the car the next day. Please bring cash and feast. All my life I have tasted some of the finest biscuits available to mankind.
—Louis Elton, Anthropological Consultant, London
Pasticceria Tonoro

Pasticceria Tonolo is located at the T-junction behind the San Pantalon Church. (Closed on Mondays). The store is a long, narrow room with a bar and cash register at the end, and to the left is a counter stocked with an assortment of pastries and cakes, run by a woman in a pink coat. Customers (i.e. Venetians) can drink and eat at the bar. There are no seats. Tea and coffee are served in blue and white ceramic cups and saucers. Among pastries, try beignets or meringues or small pistachio sweets. If you want to take your pastries home, the ladies will carefully box them for you. During Carnival, be sure to order the fritelle before heading to another cafe to compare (and keep coming back!).
— Thomas Coward, scholar, Rome
Share your recommendations for bars and restaurants in Venice in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter (@FTGlobetrotter) on Instagram.
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