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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s Guide to London
Soho has been my favorite neighborhood in London for a long time. It has the vitality and energy that exists only in several places on the planet. Villages in Manhattan, Shibuya in Tokyo, and Murray in Paris each have similar pulses.
My relationship with Soho started when I first worked there. We opened the Barter Mini about 10 years ago. Every day, we find that the colours and fabrics of the area are intertwined with people and history, many of which surround food and drinks. These locales constantly evolve and grow. They are complaining of changes in SoHo being overly sanitized, but it is impossible to capture and maintain the area at a particular point. It will be a theme park.
My days in Soho always start early. Before 9am, the only real time thing that calmed down. I buy coffee from Omotesando, a Japanese coffee roaster with sites all over the world, wander the streets and eat breakfast noodles at Koya. That udon is probably the best in London, and the soup is filled and warm. Often there is a queue at the door of the all-counter seat, but it moves quickly. Inside, the space is tight and the elbows brush along with the neighbors.
Usually I head straight to the bar after this, but I jump straight to the gallery if I have time. Photographers’ galleries often have great exhibitions. The shots at the Soho Show provided plenty of inspiration and guidance for the photos that will be displayed at our venue. All of this has been filmed in local bars and clubs over the years.
For lunch, I find it difficult to avoid Mountain, the latest restaurant by Tomos Parry, chef behind Michelin-starred blatt in East London. The mountains are wonderful, all natural forests and open spaces, with a forged-like kitchen at the back of the room. Request a table on the second floor and see the world pass through a large window. I usually order oysters, raw sobrasadas and honey, and some of the small dishes to share. The wine list is really well organized.
There are several good shops for a walk back to the bar, such as Oliver Spencer, a British menswear brand that focuses on relaxed classic styles that utilize high-quality fabrics. After that, the kitchen is ready around the corner. It replenishes an impressive selection of knives from around the world.
I’ve always returned to three sheets from 4pm to 7pm. This is often the case where there are friends who work in hospitality or people who work in hospitality, and there is a lot of energy in the room. I would probably drink a dirty martini or a glass of Bill Kurt Salmont Rose. Then pint on the coach and horses on Greek Street. It’s a SoHo facility with a great team and a great landlady Allison Ross.
For dinner, you are really spoiled for choice. My favourite is 10 cases, a French bistro that buys only 10 cases of wine at a time. This means that the wine list is constantly changing and is always exceptional. What’s more, steak flights mean that they’re as good as you get in London. For a little more old school, I’m going to Andrew Edmunds. It holds the atmosphere of a genuine neighborhood restaurant. The menu is a classic European bistro, the pricing is relatively friendly and, again, the wine list is fantastic.
For after-dinner drinks, rosewood scarfs bars are exceptional so you might venture (not too far) from SoHo. For me, drinking either a glass of martini or champagne is the nicest room in London and the service is fantastic. Andrew Loudon, who worked at London bars such as Satan’s Whiskers and 69 Colebrook Row, was able to spend several years in Singapore at the Tipling Club, so he took over the reins there and is looking forward to what he will do with his drink offerings. But if you had a more energetic night, that’s it. Head to Jerry’s club, which always has live music and eclectic crowds. It’s the real taste of this region.
Max Benning co-owns London’s three bars, Soho and Dalston and a small mercy of Crouchend
What is your favorite Soho hangout? Please let me know in the comments below. Follow @ftglobetrotter on Instagram
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