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This article is part of the new guide to Lagos from FT Globetrotter
I was born in Lagos, but my family moved elsewhere before turning it. Still, it was a city my parents visited frequently, as many of our relatives still lived there. If I travel with them there is a stop due to some decadent vanilla ice cream. When I didn’t, my parents brought home meat pie from a fast food chain that didn’t have a store in Iresa where we lived.
My childhood Lagos was thrilling for a trip to the beach, and while I danced with my cousin at a family party, my uncle and aunt pressed a vivid naira note on my forehead. It was a land of free joy. I was particularly looking forward to wandering around the Church Missionary Association (CMS) bookstores in Marina, one of Nigeria’s oldest bookstores. By then it had been renamed a Church and School Supplies (CSS) bookstore, but no one seemed to be careful about it. Founded in the 19th century by missionaries to sell Christian literature, and by the time they went with their families in the early 1990s, they expanded their scope to textbooks and educational materials. I loved it because of the English adaptation of the picture book that was published locally and the turtle story my grandmother told me.
When I got older and moved to Lagos myself, or when I started traveling myself, I realized that its strength was overwhelming. I have sought a rest in bookstores, but I continue to recommend them to anyone looking to discover such a lively, creative energy city. The Pataba book became a favorite during my stint in Lagos for the National Youth Service in Nigeria. This is a mandatory scheme for most young Nigerians to be featured in different parts of the country for a year after higher education. I had been posted to another city, but it was eventually deployed to Lagos. My placement at the bank’s headquarters required me to travel daily from Ojodu to the other marina on one end of Lagos. On average working days, I left home by 5am and returned around 9pm. Saturday was dedicated to catching up with the loss of sleep and discovering the city with friends. It was one of these Saturdays that I stumbled upon Patava.
Currently located in Adenirang Ogunsanya Mall in Srilele district, the bookstore is an important part of Lagos’ vibrant book community in 1987 and was founded by the first woman, Nigerian, and her husband, Foluseke Somolu, to earn a PhD in Engineering. I enjoy pausing there to browse their shelves whenever I’m in the mall, and I will never leave without a new must-see. It is the perfect store to discover a variety of self-published titles, along with books from Nigeria and International Publishers. Beyond book sales, Patava has become the foundation of the literary community through book clubs and literary events. I vividly remember going home, taking part in reading, and continuing to work on my first book with the shared energy of readers and writers. Whether you’re browsing in a store or scrolling through your Instagram page, it’s a great place.
Over time, my ambiguity about Lagos dissipated and I eventually moved there 8 years ago. Over the past three years, my family and I have split time between Lagos and Norwich in the UK. I long for Lagos when I’m away, but in the first few weeks of my return I feel like a girl from a small town in the city. On the day I can’t resign, Roving Heights is my trusty fix to everything in the book. They have a reliable delivery service that began as an online-only venture of sisters and brothers Olwatobi and Adedutun Ainead and Adedutun’s wife Adeborah. After running a bookstore from the DAINING ROOM for three years, Glasses was able to open its first brick and mortar store.
The Victoria Island store at Roving Heights has become one of my favourite places. Whether you’re looking for contemporary African fiction, global bestsellers, or niche self-help titles, it’s easy to find what you need. Also, the staff are happy to call the title from the Surulere branch if you don’t have what you’re looking for in the store. The thoughtful curation of this bookstore extends beyond the shelves. Roving Heights will be releasing its annual bestseller list in collaboration with Open Country Magazine. This list offers an insightful glimpse into Nigerian reading preferences and is often topped with locally published books (and available at Roving Heights).
The caliber jazz hole is an experience. Whether you’re looking for books, art or records, its charm will last you. From timeless classics to bold contemporary works, we offer a selection of new, used books that feel deeply and personally, as if each title is chosen to inspire readers. It’s the kind of place you’ll trip over a book or magazine you didn’t even know what you were looking for. If you’re lucky, if you can come across founder Kunle Tejuoso while you’re in the store, he can give you great recommendations about books and music.
In addition to its literary offerings, the Jazz Hall is well known for its eclectic collection of vinyl and CDs. It curates and archives an impressive selection of African and Aphrodian Politician black music while caters to music lovers of diverse flavours. The store also has performance space for gigs and has recently released two LPs of Nigerian music. FaajiAgba – Eroya and Asiko Tito. The cafe inside the jazz hole adds another layer to its charm. It offers a variety of drinks and light snacks, making it a great place to relax. Jazzhole is a space where Lagos’ bustle recedes, replaced by conversational softham, vinyl record melody in the background, and spinning pages.
Opebi’s Ouida Bookstore is the heart of the dynamic cultural hub known as Ouida Lagos. Founded by award-winning author and publisher Laura Shawneein, the creative haven also includes a cafe, workspace, publisher and gift shop. Bookshop defends local authors and presents the continent’s rich storytelling legacy. With a selection of contemporary African fiction, poetry and non-fiction, there is something meaningful for all readers. Friendly staff will provide personalized recommendations that will enhance the experience and make each visit memorable.
Ouida events add another layer of vibrancy. From the “Sip and Paint” session to opening a microphone night, something is always going on to inspire creativity and connection. The January edition of the recently released Iseda event series featured a presentation of a new book by Nigerian author Nnamdi Ehirim. Ouida is more than a place to find books. This is a community of creatives and a community to celebrate the voice of Africa. If you’re in Lagos, don’t miss this gem.
Lekki Phase I Nearby Booknuke is my latest bookstore discovery and is already my beloved space. It’s located in a busy Navy HQ and after a trip to a nearby bank, mall or restaurant, I pop out and enjoy. This intimate bookstore comes in a variety of genres and titles from around the world. You can always find interesting cookbooks here. Some of them were recommended for cooking and books in her YouTube interview series, Uzo Orimalade, the founder of Kitchen Library. I love buying kids’ titles. They maintain a variety of carefully curated options that are entertaining, informing and inspire. As someone who picks up reading love as a child and wants to share this with the little kids in my life, Book Nook always has something to cherish.
ayọ̀bámiadébáyọ̀ is the author of spell spells
What is your favorite bookstore in Lagos? Please let me know in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @ftglobetrotter
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