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We went to Mumbai since we were kids. We hold precious memories of being towed by our favorite fruit sellers, when we hugged with our grandmother and towed at Crawford Market on our way to enjoy the sea breeze with our grandparents at dusk. Now our fortune is that cities are part of our work life. We travel there several times a year, hosting coworkers (eating, drinking, watching too much), or simply wandering for inspiration. Mumbai is a delicious city.
The great joy of Mumbai is how rooted it is in the past and how excited it is for the future. Combine these contrasting trends into your itinerary. They work beautifully together, especially when it comes to food.
breakfast
Rise up with the sun and venture out the Coraba Causeway to Sassoon Dock, the main fish market in South Mumbai. The city is almost peaceful early in the morning, but the docks are excited with activity. Fishermen go out on boats, while women sell their catch. It’s a sight you have to experience. Anything you can imagine swimming in the ocean is available for sale here. Don’t get in the way of anyone and wear shoes that don’t bother you.
Afterwards we return to the Colaba Causeway to the Olympia Coffee House for breakfast. It’s a cool shelter from traffic that’s already ringing (certainly, ceiling fans stir up warmer air than cooling it). Order Keema (Mince Mutton with a fried egg on top) and Chai for each Eedu. This may be the best keema (and breakfast) in Mumbai. Sit here and watch out for people. You may need to share a table, but a day like this is a good day.
lunch
Two of our favorite lunches are Gujarat (like us), very popular in vegetarians. Be patient – you may need to wait for the table.
Tardao’s Swati snacks are very popular with families. Do as they do – order many dishes and share them. It’s all great. Swati snacks have originally become famous for their home style cuisine and charts, but don’t miss out on the amazing panky (rice pancakes steamed with banana leaves).
Kalbadevi’s Shree Thaker Bhojanalay offers the perfect version of Thali. That’s too good. They change what they offer depending on what is most delicious at a particular time of year. The family that runs the place is a great host, and the barefoot waiter will fill up your rai until you can no longer eat.
Perfect bite
In Mumbai, you are not far from the perfect bite. There are a few things we love and we won’t miss it if we’re close.
Ashokvadha pub near Kirti College in Dadar may be the best mouthful in the city of Vada Pub Eaters. Sellers here have been doing this for decades (and nothing else). Potato pate from a fryer served on bread. This has absolutely appropriate spice levels, with chutneys that are tasty enough to cover your lips, a soft pub, and crispy scraps from the fryer. Heat and chili peppers are combined for addictive hits. We challenge you to stop by one!
Sardar Pav Baji from Tardao is the master of the famous culinary Pav Baji (mashed vegetables with bread). Their baji are buttery rich, spicy, and their pav pillows. You order with extra butter or cheese, but no matter what you choose, the joy continues. It’s worth a trip.
After dark, you’ll find some of the best dishes in Mumbai on Muhammad Alilord, but it can be overwhelmingly busy and it can be hard to know where to eat. The sure bet is Noor Mohamedi. Order a plate of chicken shami kebab with butternan (the best in town) and sit outside watching and listening as the world progresses. It’s even more magical during Ramadan.
dinner
Depending on the company and mood, these two places are highly recommended for dinner and a satisfying contrast with more traditional foods.
For flashy Indian food, head to Trèsind in the BKC business district. They incorporate classic Indian flavours and offer innovative tasting menus that treat them with a combination of incredible techniques and deep respect. You will be on a great journey.
To catch up with your friends, head to Ekaa in the fort area. Enter a simple and beautiful room with minimalist aesthetics housed in a historic 19th century building. Chef Niyati Rao (including NOMA in CV) produces amazing food and cocktails that bring together seasonal ingredients and technical dishes.
drink
I really love the old “permission room” in Mumbai. In theory, you need a medical license to consume alcohol at the bar here. Therefore, the name is required. The sunlight at Dobi Tarao is a great place. Chicken lollipops, chili chicken and masala peanuts perfectly match cold beers (or stronger ones). The waiter takes pride in pouring your spirit and mixer, and the place has a rough and ready charm. If you’re lucky, you’ll end up there on the night when people are singing karaoke upstairs.
Shamil Thakrar and Kavi Thakrar are the founders of Dishoom, a popular chain of Mumbai-style restaurants. They recently opened Porto Bello, a permit room, a full-day cafe and bar in London’s Notting Hill
Please tell us about your favorite Mumbai restaurants and bars in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @ftglobetrotter.
