How to survive the New York holiday season

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This article is part of the FT Globetrotter’s New York Guide.

Blame the elf. Because of Miracle on 34th Street. It’s because of when Harry met Sally – especially the scene where they carry the Christmas tree through snowy Manhattan. When I moved from London to New York two years ago, I definitely blamed Hollywood for expecting to be immersed in the magic of festivities every holiday season.

No doubt the same will be true of the 7.5 million tourists expected to land in the city between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. A festive trip to New York is on many people’s bucket lists, but let’s be honest: Sometimes it doesn’t feel so magical in reality. Dreaming of a Rockefeller Center Christmas tree? If you’re like me, you might find yourself stuck in a slow-moving crowd filming TikTok videos for hours on end. ice skating? My inner Scrooge balks when I think of the price (last time I checked, $344.28 for a family of four to glide around the famous tree). show? Ditto ($744 for 4 tickets to the Rockets Christmas Spectacular). Ah, humbug.

But the Christmas season in New York City can be magical, says actor, historian, and tour guide Megan Marrod, if you’re well prepared. “Make your reservations. Now is not the time to try to get last-minute bargains,” she says. Book a table at Le Roque, the acclaimed restaurant owned by the team at Tribeca’s trendy restaurant Francette, and you’ll get an unimpeachable view of the Rockefeller Tree. Or, if you can, throw money at the problem. For example, the VIP Rockefeller Tour includes access to a private terrace inside the Art Deco skyscraper and costs $285 per person.

But the spectacular display isn’t limited to the famous Midtown Coniferous Forest. Other places have a lot of festive sparkle, but fewer people. “Lower Manhattan is really, really magical,” Marod says. She recommends walking from the Union Square Holiday Market to Washington Square Park, or checking out the trees at South Street Seaport and the New York Stock Exchange. Or, if you really love Christmas lights, take the subway to Dyker Heights in Brooklyn. It is an area lined with OTT dazzling houses.

Soho is also very sparkling at this time of year. Every year, Robin Standefer, the chic proprietor of contemporary French restaurant La Merserie, graces her establishment with a giant Christmas tree (stopping for Apéro is the perfect afternoon indulgence). Her recommendation for Christmas shopping is to start around 10 a.m. (some stores open, others until 11 a.m.) at 57th Street and Fifth Avenue near Central Park. Walk past Bergdorf Goodman’s wild windows, then hop in a cab or walk to Soho. There, she loves the “quirky and weird stores” like John Derian for quirky homewares and Totem and Rick Owens for unique designer fashion. I buy decorations for wrapping presents at Hyman Hendler, a 100-year-old ribbon shop in Midtown.

I’m starting to realize that the key to the holiday season is to pick one or two typical tourist endeavors and do them in the least intrusive way possible, filling your trip with authentic and singular experiences. It feels like curling up in the cozy confines of one of the city’s bookstore bars, a growing place to read a book and drink mulled wine on a winter’s night from Soho to the Bronx. Maura Cheeks, a novelist and owner of Liz’s Book Bar in Brooklyn, says New York is great for “third space because our living spaces are really small.” It’s often a social experience, too, she added. “New Yorkers are very open to meeting strangers” – something I’ve noticed myself since being here, so you might find yourself chatting to locals. Away from the hustle and bustle of Times Square, New York City has a very convivial atmosphere.

For Molly Krause, who works in the visual arts, this time of year means heading to Chinatown, where the Blade Runner glowing signs and lanterns line the streets. “It’s like magic to me,” she says. She plans to go to either Shanghai 21 Restaurant or the popular Huayuan Sichuan branch, which is often booked out. Last year, she and her family dined there on Christmas Day, a traditional Jewish day for eating Chinese food, over spicy, crispy dry sautéed beef. There are many special spots here, including Nom Wah Tea Parlor, nestled in an atmospheric alley lined with lanterns.

Mr. Kraus also praised Tribeca’s The Odeon restaurant, which famously hosted Andy Warhol and Tom Wolfe. Standefer offers Grand Central Oyster Bar for its “old New York hustle and bustle.” This year, we’ll be nestling into cozy spots like Balthazar and Bemelman’s Bar, filled with the perfect quintessential New York golden lighting.

For those looking for a less urban setting, Black Mountain Wine House is located well off the tourist trail in Brooklyn’s Cobble Hill (a 40-minute subway ride from Times Square). It has a roaring fireplace and a “cosy, warm, Adirondack” feel, said owner Tyler Magandini. His other tips are Molly’s Shebeen in Gramercy (“It’s decorated a lot for Christmas, but it feels like a real place”) and the wood-panelled bar at The Bowery Hotel . But when it snows, he always goes to the Brooklyn Inn in Cobble Hill. “It’s a very old facility and has beautiful old big front windows where you sit and watch the snow fall on the lampposts.”

By the way, we haven’t had much snow lately (the 701-day snow-free record I was worried about was broken in mid-January 2024), so that’s contributing to my level of Bah Humbug-ness. Maybe. If it snows on Christmas (unfortunately, the Old Farmer’s Almanac predicts a mild winter), I wonder if even I will be powerless against New York’s festive magic.

How to have a fun vacation in New York

Explore further afield than the popular holiday spots around Midtown. Stroll through the West Village or Brooklyn Heights and admire the festive decorations on the beautiful brownstones.

Don’t go see the Rockefeller Christmas tree on the weekend unless you like being jostled by strangers. Watch it on weekdays when New Yorkers are at work, preferably around 4:30 p.m. when it’s just dark, or on your way home from dinner at 11:45 p.m. (lights out at midnight).

Find another way to enjoy the festive spirit. Most New Yorkers I know don’t avoid Fifth Avenue entirely, but they know how to navigate it smoothly. My friend has made it an annual tradition to enjoy drinks with friends at The Plaza, close to shops with festive shop windows but away from the crowds.

Don’t be spontaneous. When you book a restaurant with Eater, the map option is particularly useful, allowing you to explore the city area by area. Many popular spots book up as soon as reservations open (usually 30 days in advance, but not always). Please check specific policies. Depending on the location, you may also need to set an alarm to get a table.

Be prepared to use your credit card flexibly. New York festivals are expensive, but there are budget-friendly options as well. Check out plans for all large cultural facilities. Many institutions, like the Metropolitan Museum of Art, may have spectacular trees and free caroling events. Check out Bryant Park, Ullman Rink in Central Park, and Lefrak Ice Skating Rink in Prospect Park. Both are cheaper than Rockefeller. There are fees to rent ice skates, although some are free. Please make a reservation in advance.

What is your favorite thing to do in New York during your vacation? Let us know in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter (@FTGlobetrotter) on Instagram.

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