This article is part of the FT Globetrotter’s New York Guide.
There’s a lot of debate about what exactly the Hudson Valley is. Three million acres of varied terrain, including rolling hills, quaint towns, and small cities, stretch from the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson rivers in northern Albany County to Westchester County, also known as the suburbs of New York City. . It is made up of 10 diverse counties, further divided into Lower Hudson, Mid-Hudson, and Upper Hudson. Most people tend to associate idyllic weekend getaways and cultural explorations with the midsection, but let’s just say the area is loosely defined.
“What makes the Hudson Valley unique is its vastness,” explains lifelong resident and food writer Tarasia Morell. “Its hills and hollows are dotted with villages, each with its own unique character. Even a visit to just one county offers a whole new experience. The beauty of the woods in between. There really is something for everyone here.”
So whether you want to go snowshoeing, craft cocktails next to a crackling fireplace, or visit an awe-inspiring museum filled with American history, the options are endless, all from midtown Manhattan. Only 2 hours away.
Dutchess County
Based in Amenia’s charming Troutbeck, a former 18th-century inn and mansion that hosted writers such as Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau, and politicians such as Theodore Roosevelt, the town of Wassaic, Millbrook, and Millerton is nearby. It’s a 10-20 minute drive away. This recently renovated boutique hotel features 37 rooms and suites by designer Alexandra Champalimaud, and every configuration incorporates Scandinavian knowledge, from the cozy library to the cheerful, dimly lit bar. Makes me feel. During the holidays, the hall is decorated with festive fir tree flowers, amaryllis, and poinsettias, and becomes the setting for gingerbread house building, a Feast of the Seven Fish-inspired dinner, and New Year’s Eve festivities for all ages. Masu.
This is a gourmet area, so start your day with fresh cardamom buns and croissants from Vitzky Bakery in nearby Wassaik, then head to Wassaik Project, a seven-story artist-run non-profit gallery and education center. Let’s stop by. Former factory. Visit Tenmile Distillery, which produces small-batch whiskey, gin, and vodka, and take a detour to enjoy great spirits and field-to-fork dining by Westerly Canteen, served in an idyllic apple orchard in the fall. It’s worth it.
Further along, the small town of Millbrook is home to a magnificent, rugged landscape built between 1930 and 1960, inspired by the illustrated scrolls of 8th century Chinese poet and artist Wang Wei. There is a garden innisfree. Regardless of the season, the swamps, dog runs, and rock ledges form a stunning landscape.
Just down the road (all 20 minutes from everything else here) is Millerton, a quintessentially quaint village with a decidedly Brooklyn hipster vibe. Pick up an expensive Nordic sweater or the perfect pair of Levis at Westerlind, or head across Main Street to the newly opened Duchess Trading Company. We carry an elegant selection of French soaps, candles, linens, and more. When you’re hungry, head to the retro Oakhurst Diner for a quality burger or unexpectedly delicious pho. Movie buffs will love The Moviehouse, which shows arthouse and independent films, as well as live performances by the Metropolitan Opera.
End your day at the Stishing House, a former inn and tavern in nearby Pine Plains that dates back to 1782. Chef and proprietor Claire de Boer, an alumnus of London’s River Café and co-owner of New York’s King, serves simple, fresh food. Dishes include coal-roasted dayboat scallops with green garlic butter and suckling pig with roasted peaches from nearby Sugar Hill Farm.
Rhinebeck and Tivoli
When it comes to diversity of hotels, restaurants, and historical attractions, not to mention ease of access by Amtrak, Rhinebeck Village can’t be beat. The Beekman Arms Inn is located at the town’s main intersection (with one traffic light). Its exterior, with its white stone façade and black shutters, has remained unchanged since its founding in 1766. Mirbeau Inn & Spa is perfect for hot stone massages and farmhouse cuisine. The new player is C Cassis. The company is a maker of “not overly sweet, lightly fermented” cassis liqueurs that are perfect for tasting in a bright, beautiful tasting room.
Stroll through the magically illuminated Market Street. There, Samuel’s Sweet Shop, the candy department store co-owned by actors Paul Rudd and Jeffrey Dean Morgan, offers an afternoon pick-me-up in the form of peanut butter cup blondies. Bread Alone’s flat white across the street.
Once you’ve properly fueled up, head to Wilderstein, a 19th-century Queen Anne-style country house perched above the Hudson River (“Wildman Stone,” after the Native American petroglyphs on the property). With landscape design by Calvert Vaux and a storied history that included multiple visits from President FD Roosevelt, this Victorian oasis offers guided tours, lecture series, holiday programs, scavenger hunts for children, and more.
If you’re looking to add to your festive season fun, the Dutchess County Fairgrounds’ drive-thru Wonderland of Lights (Nov. 28 to Dec. 29; check schedule) promises a dazzling experience .
After a day of activities, dinner at Le Petit Bistro is the highlight. Craft cocktails, oysters, and the perfect steak au poivre all make a meal here memorable. For dessert, keep it simple and grab an ice cream cone (the mint brownie swirl is a standout) at Dell’s Roadside, a favorite since 1960.
If you’re looking for a more tranquil setting, the village of Tivoli, with a population of 1,000, just up Route 9G, is worth a visit. Hotel Tivoli and farm-to-table restaurant The Corner were started by the late artist Bryce Marden and his wife Helen. With 12 eclectic and brightly colored rooms, it’s perfect for a weekend getaway. Popular area newcomer Giovatta Alimentari is just a short walk away. The menu, the pride of Chef Francesco Buitoni (part of the pasta family), features classic Italian salads, cannellini bean bistecca ai ferri (grilled steak), and tagliatelle bolognese at affordable prices.
across the river
Just west of Rhinebeck, across the Kingston Rhinecliff Bridge, lies the small city of Kingston, once a sleepy place, now a thriving arts and culinary scene. One of Hotel Kinsley’s 42 beautifully appointed rooms in the historic Stockade District offers luxurious surroundings (think velvet banquettes and Frette linens, albeit rustic) and easy access to adventure. It has easy access. Hutton Brickyard is another riverside option, with minimalist pine and glass cabins offering floor-to-ceiling views.
From either hotel, you can easily explore the Midtown Arts District and the Leher Center for Immigrant Culture and History, which features a historic bakery. There’s also great shopping to do. Black Creek Mercantile & Trading Company sells locally handcrafted furniture and tabletop items with a contemporary sensibility. Hop Petunia, on the other hand, offers a more colorful selection of homewares. For linen denim pants and moleskin work jackets, head to Clove & Creek, where you can have your entire weekend wardrobe in one room.
The surrounding area is not known for its difficult ski slopes, but there are many gentle ski slopes. Hunter Mountain, Bellaire Mountain, and Windham Mountain are all less than an hour away, perfect for beginners and snowboarders alike.
After a long day outdoors exploring, hiking, or visiting galleries, comfort food is the perfect way to go. For casual fare, both Ollie’s Slice Shop and Lola Pizza compete for locals’ hearts, while Italian-inspired Eliza (from the team behind Ollie’s) serves fan favorites like baby gem salad, homemade cavatelli, and perfection We serve delicious burgers in a great and lively atmosphere. Retro atmosphere with neon signs.
How to get there: Accessible by car or train along the scenic Taconic Parkway (Metro-North from Grand Central Station to Wasaic or Amtrak from Penn Station to Rhinecliff, New York)
Do you have a favorite Hudson Valley vacation? Let us know in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter (@FTGlobetrotter) on Instagram.
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