This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s Istanbul guide
Few bodies of water have inspired as many legends as the Bosphorus, the serpentine waterway that divides Istanbul, Turkey’s largest city, into Europe and Asia. Its name comes from the Greek word oxford, which appears in the myth of Zeus’ lover Io, who was turned into a bull and driven into the water by the anger of his wife Hera. Legend has it that Jason and the Argonauts sailed the Bosphorus in search of the Golden Fleece, and modern scientists speculate that a great flood through the Bosphorus flooded the Black Sea basin some 8,000 years ago, giving rise to the Biblical story of the Flood and Noah’s Ark.
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A century ago, the Bosphorus, the sea route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean Sea, was dotted with pristine swimming spots. But today, many Istanbul residents consider the 31-mile strait to be a bottleneck when commuting across three suspension bridges. Having ceded the Bosphorus to oil tankers and ferries, residents prefer the beaches of the Black Sea and the neighboring Princes Islands in the Sea of Marmara, while wealthy naives head en masse to Istanbul and to resorts in the Aegean and Mediterranean Sea.
But a growing number of Istanbulites are breaking the taboo of swimming in the fast-moving waters of the Bosphorus in order to rediscover its many pleasures. Although the “skeletons of Celts and Ligurians with their mouths agape in homage to the unknown prehistoric gods” lurking beneath the blue depths, as Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk imagined, are out of reach, swimmers are rewarded with stunning views of Ottoman architecture on the water’s edge, frequent sightings of bottlenose dolphins, and the thrill of wild swimming in the city. 16 million people.
This approach requires careful attention. There are no lifeguards in the fight against the Bosphorus Current, which has claimed lives in the past. The strait acts like a giant siphon between the less saline Black Sea and the denser Marmara Sea, with two layers of current flowing in opposite directions at the same time. Light Black Sea water can be encountered at the surface, and the current along much of the coast is flowing at between 1 and 2 knots, which is manageable for strong swimmers (although it can reach 4 knots in some places).
Swimmers should avoid the center of the channel. Also, the flow is very fast due to maritime traffic. If you want to swim from Asia to Europe, consider taking part in the Bosphorus Transcontinental Swim Race in August. During this race, ships will stop and safety boats will monitor participants.
Swimming is generally prohibited south of the First Bridge in the busiest area of the strait. Further north along the waterway, there are areas with fewer dangerous waters and obstacles. We recommend wearing a well-lit safety buoy and bringing a companion with you.
Sparkling on a bright summer day, the cool and surprisingly low-salinity waters of the Bosphorus feel like medicine even in the heat. Temperatures range from 20 to 24 degrees Celsius in summer, and about half that in winter. Thanks to the heat from the ocean, it’s chilly but never freezing. Although the water is cleaner than it has been in decades and other places around Istanbul, northerly winds and storms can bring in trash and other debris, and jellyfish with minor stings are also part of the experience.
Most of these spots don’t have cabins or other facilities to change into your bathing suit, so wear your costume under your clothes or simply change your towel on the shore. Leave your valuables at home.
Bebek Park
The Art Nouveau palace that now houses the Egyptian Consulate was once the summer residence of Emina Ilhami. She was the mother of the last king of Egypt and the only woman in the Ottoman Empire to hold the honorific title Pasha (equivalent to “lord”). The 200-meter-long waterfront, where rowers once moored their ornate kaiks to transport nobles across the Bosphorus, is now separated by buoy lines for swimmers.
Swimming duo Murat Oz and Yasemin Altuntaş can be found in Bebek most mornings throughout the year, training for major open water events. Their adventure to swim the world’s straits and straits aboard Ocean’s Seven was temporarily halted in May when a cookie-cutter shark attacked the island of Oz, located between the Hawaiian islands of Molokai and Oahu.
“The Bosphorus remains number one,” said Oz, 43, who grew up near Bebek. “There’s a wonderful view, with the mansion on the left and the castle on the left. It’s very charming.”
Access to this water is accessed via a staircase located in a park adjacent to the Egyptian Consulate, the main green space in Bebek, an exclusive neighborhood on the European coast. Paddleboarders also flock to the shallows, where you can catch a glimpse of the yal, or seaside mansions that adjoin the palace. direction
Asyan
About 1.5 km up the European coast from Bebek Park, the Assyan area has a long promenade and attracts fishermen hunting bluefish and anchovies in the fast-flowing waters. This place also attracts delicanles, or “crazy youths” who perform backflips and somersaults from platforms into the deep sea.
This is the narrowest point of the Bosphorus, less than half a mile between the continents, and the coastal currents accelerate here. Swimmers enter the water via a staircase near Rumeli Hisar, a fortress built by Mehmet the Conqueror prior to the siege of Constantinople in 1453, and exit via a second staircase about 400 meters downstream. It’s almost impossible to go back. Stick close to the shore and take the exit to avoid the small ferry boat terminal 200 meters away.
A bridge named after Sultan Mehmet spans the watershed, and from the shore you can see up close the giant tankers transporting crude oil, grain and other goods from Black Sea ports through one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes. direction
Itiyarlar Beach
The name translates to “old man’s beach” after retirees flock here early in the morning to spend the day sunbathing on the polished bronze statues. The name “beach” is a misnomer, as the water comes up a rickety staircase from the boardwalk.
This cape is located in a small bay of protected waters on the coast of Europe and is one of the safest places to swim in the Bosphorus, especially in the early morning when drifting tends to slow down considerably. The beach is about 400 meters along the coast, making it easy to get back. Tired athletes can soothe their nerves with a cup of hot tea from a snack vendor on a mobile cart.
In the absence of a dedicated club for Bosphorus swimmers, enthusiasts have formed informal groups, mostly organized on WhatsApp, to practice together at Iftiyarlar, Bebek and other spots. Your best bet is to visit one of the spots around 7am and approach the friendly racers.
Although Türkiye’s Ministry of Health publishes updated information on water quality at popular beaches, there is little information on swimming conditions in the Bosphorus. “We have a rule: we don’t swim the day after it rains,” Oz says. Surface runoff from Istanbul’s streets and rooftops flows into the straits, potentially flooding sewer pipes in some parts of the city during particularly heavy rains. direction
Buyuk Liman Beach
Near the mouth of the Black Sea, the Bosphorus winds past forested hills and small fishing villages, where protected forests still block Istanbul’s spread. With development pressures looming, the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge, one of the world’s longest suspension bridges, opened here in 2016.
Near the European foot of the bridge is one of the few Bosphorus beach clubs open to the public in summer. Buyuk Liman (Grand Harbor) Beach is accessible by car and then a steep hike down to the fine natural sand. The club costs 600 Turkish Liras (£10/$14.50), which includes the use of sun loungers and umbrellas, and has showers, changing rooms and refreshments. Lifeguards are always on duty.
The water is relatively clear and the seabed is covered with seagrass, which is an important filter for pollutants and a nursery for marine life. On summer weekends, platoons of day trippers on tour boats flock to the cove, so keep your eyes on the water to avoid anchor chains during busy times. instagram; direction
Pasabahce Beach
Deep in the trees of Pasabahce’s Asian neighborhood, there is a free beach along the hollow of the Bosphorus. The water here is clean and the current is not too strong, and you can see horse mackerel and silver darts swimming among the rocks in the shallows.
Families descend with tents and camping chairs, get comfortable on the rough sand, and brew tea in kettles stacked atop gas stoves by the water. Visit early in the morning or mid-week to avoid the crowds. direction
Locals gather in several locations on the Asian side, including north of Anadolu Hisar, the twin stronghold of Rumeli. These places formed the coordinated fortifications of the Byzantine Empire in the 15th century. Derikanlu dives from a small park in the Kuzguncuk neighborhood, close to the city centre. Swimming there is more dangerous due to rapids.
Do you have a favorite swimming spot in the Bosphorus? Share your tips in the comments. Follow @ftglobetrotter on Instagram.
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